I leave all of the dry stems in the garden for wildlife cover and housing for native bees. In the spring, that means I have work to do before green things poke their heads very far out of the ground. Although I would prefer to get in the garden a couple of weeks earlier than the day the clocks are turned back, this year my first garden adventure is on the last morning I'll roll out of bed feeling wide awake. Tomorrow, I'll be chugging coffee & cursing Ben Franklin. What follows is a one day gardening prep list. Back in 2014, I did a more detailed blog and yes, I do still follow that list every year. Now, my husband helps more than ever.
Grasses. Shear dry leaves 4 - 6" above the ground, at least a hand's height above the crown or you may kill the plant.
Perennials. Some perennials are brittle & snap near ground level with a twist of your hand. Grab a handful of stems a few inches above the crown and press quickly down and to the center of the plant. Most dry stems will snap right off. I try this method first because I find it so satisfying. Some require pruning with shears, hori (a serrated knife) or hand pruners. In most cases, cut away the drive stems and dead plant material, cutting as close as possible without damaging the crown.
Roses. Sanitize the site carefully by cleaning out leaves & debris. Prune out dead wood as close to the crown as you can without damaging the crown. I cut all stems back to about 12 - 14", then I prune for bud location. If the top buts is pointing into the middle of the bush, I cut below the bud so the branches will grow out, producing better air circulation with new growth. Cut at an angle, close to the next bud, but not so close that you damage the bud.
Shrubs. Some shrubs have finer, brittle branches and are best pruned by grasping the branch near the joint where two other stems branch off to the side, or outer edge & snapping the top off. Just pinch, bend & push to snap off the overgrown branches on shrubs like azaleas, wegelia, spirea & etc. this produces a quite natural form while keeping overgrowth in check.
Other shrubs with thicker branches are pruned like trees, using proper tools & sanitary practices.
Trees. Sanitize the area & prune with clean tools. Select branches to remove those that rub, grow into the center, compete with the leader at the top, show signs of damage or disease. Cut at an angle, near to the crotch or the branches, but not so close that you damage the site where you want new growth to occur. I use images available from the Arbor Day Foundation as a refresher. I never lop off all of the branches to keep a tree artificially smaller as it makes the tree weaker & more susceptible to disease. DON'T TOP CREPE MYRTLES.
Clean Up. Sanitize the area by raking out trimmings, leaves & debris. I'll have to be very careful, since new growth is already peaking. This is the best pest & disease control I'll do all year. You can leave your debris pile in an area for native bees & other native insects. I compost some & leave some in a back corner.
Mulch. 3 - 4" of mulch applied in a layer that comes close to trees & shrubs, but not in direct contact, will retain moisture, reduce watering needs & look fabulous. Mulch can be an entire topic of discourse, but briefly, I choose to use natural cedar mulch, not from lumber, & not dyed artificially. I have used pine bark & pine straw. Each has advantages & disadvantages. Mostly, I use what's cheapest and most natural. Mulch lasts for 1 to 3 years, depending on the amount of rain and snow you receive. I try to keep five bags on hand for supplemental mulching. I have landscape cloth under my mulch, so it is very easy for me to pull weeds that root in the mulch. I don't rake out old mulch, I just keep adding new as it gets thin or as it decomposes.
